Who not fear the Sea, Thailand 2009
A portrait of the Hantalee Family
Paradies Lost?

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The Urak Lawoi (People of the Sea), once immigrated from Indonesia, live in the holiday paradise of Thailand.
In the 19th century, they follewed their magician To Kiri from Sumatra to the Andaman Sea. In small rowing boats, with children, animals and all belongings, they were searching for new fishing grounds. To Kiri, not only shaman but also adventurer and businessman, was trading in seafoods. For him the Urak Lawoi, being excellent divers and swimmers, were perfect travelling companions.

In 1909, the governor of the southern Thailand province Satun asked his friend To Kiri to populate the Adang Archipelago. At that time, Thailand and British Malaysia were correcting their borders. With a „Thai population“ the governor could claim the resource-rich archipelago for Thailand. A great distance to the mainland, no natural harbor
and unpredictable storms during the rainy season have until then prevented the population of the Adang Archipelago.

The Urak Lawoi were the only ones able to survive on these remote islands. Depending on season and the main wind direction they made camp in protected bays. They lived on the beach, built temporal huts from natural materials and made a living from what the island would provide. Living with the tides, they did not fear the sea. They respected their environment and also the spirits of nature and their ancestors.

This Paradise, once discovered, did not stay untouched for long. The fishing industry hit first: Turtle, lobster, sea cucumber and fish were hunted to extinction by increasingly sophisticated methods. In this, the Urak Lawoi were more victims than offenders: After traders got them used to drugs like sugar, coffee and alcohol, they had to sell their skills. The traders also brought with them new fishing methods: Trawl netting and dynamite fishing destroyed the reefs.
In 1975 the Adang Archipelago was declared „Tarutao Marine National Park“. Again to the disadvantage of the Urak Lawoi: They had to give up their settlements on the islands Adang and Rawi, and camping, an integral part of their traditional way of life, was forbidden.
The were only allowed to live on the small island of Lipe. But this island is a true pearl in a tourquoise sea. Years ago, land speculators saw the possibilities. By trickery, but also with threats and violence, the Urak Lawoi were relieved of their land ownership papers. They have to move again. Tourists from all over the world are now relaxing in bungalows built over the ruins of a paradise.

But where are the Urak Lawoi? They vanish into the sea of dark-skinned servants. But with patience you can meet the true masters of the Adang Archipelago and enter a world of ancient knowledge.
Heike Waelde, 2009